Hello there everyone!
Well as Adam mentioned in the previous post, we made it to Edinburgh airport fairly unscathed on our tiny-tiny aeroplane from Brussels. To Adam’s sorrow we took a bus (we wanted to take taxi) from the airport to our new Hotel; the Apex European. We were definitely pleasantly surprised by this hotel, the outside looked a bit dreary, but our room was newly renovated with a king size bed and large flat screen TV! But my favourite part was the little rubber duckie that come with the bath! So cute!
We had a Scottish banquet that night and raised a glass to all of the Aussie’s back home for Australia Day! The next morning we woke bright and early and set out on foot to the centre of Edinburgh. After 15 minute we reached High Street (the Royal Mile,) a road that leads straight up to Edinburgh Castle. The First stop was the Haggis Tour Office, just to get our bearings. Then we headed towards the Scot monument where I got a bit side tracked and went clothes shopping at TopShop, H&M and Mark and Spencers! Adam even bought some clothes from ‘TopMan’!!!! Our haul now weighing us down, we decided it was the PERFECT time to climb the Scot Monument!!! This monument was built in dedication to Sir Walter Scott. He did some great things for Scotland, all of which I cannot really remember, but I do remember that he was the person who orchestrated the opening of the Trunk that held the Honours of Scotland (the Crown Jewels) after they had been hidden for over 100 years. Any Adam had the burden of carrying all of our new clothes up the tight winding staircases of the monument. We made it to the second highest landing of the aprox 273 step monument and decided that was enough... The walls around the stair begin to get really close from there.
Moving on, we started to feel hungry and found a nice little pub for lunch on the Royal Mile. We both drank a pint of beer and had our burgers in the 15 minutes that we had before we had to get to our next little adventure, a Ghost Tour of the Edinburgh underground streets. Rocking up to the tour feeling pleasantly tipsy, the guide ran up to us huffing and puffing in a just a t-shirt and jeans. He led us down a street through a town house and into the underground through a hole in the wall. Now I will hand over to Adam to give you the back story on this area.
According to local lore, beneath the South and North Bridges of Edinburgh lies a labyrinth of ‘vaults’ that were created to solve the growing city’s storage problems. These vaults were made in the early 1700’s and used as storage space for the local shops and taverns. When the rent became too high, they were used to conceal material of a more ‘black market’ nature.
Unfortunately, the vaults were created out of volcanic rock that, I’m sure you’re all aware, has the tendency to absorb copious amounts of moisture. As the city in those times had a below average plumbing quality, the stock was always ruined and it became too costly to keep anything down there.
The vaults, for that reason, were abandoned and no longer used.
Now, apparently around the same time, the leaders of Edinburgh were in the process of improving the city, especially since it was one of the first places that it was legal to ‘study the human form.’ This meant that it was now practise to dissect humans for the medical and arts professions.
To clean the city, the leaders decreed it was now legal to be homeless. To that end, if you were found to be begging or living vagrant on the streets, you were hung. (I believe Vladimir Tepes tried something similar...)
To escape this, the poor class of Edinburgh began fleeing to the underground vaults, making them their homes. As the living conditions were squalor, and the people more so, the vaults were rife with crimes of murder, theft, and rape. With the chance of catching disease so high, the local police dared not enter this horrid place. It is even rumoured that Irish mass murders Burke and Hare also hunted their game from the vaults.
Now as no written records were kept for the vaults, they are not sure when but apparently somewhere between 1730 to 1780, the vaults were emptied and sealed. (A rumour was that they were sealed as 80 or so people fled there during the Edinburgh fires and were incidentally cooked alive).
Now flash forward to around 1975. A group of young lads are using one of the local apartments as their bachelor pad. During a drunken stouper, one lad tried to find his way back to his room. Wlaking into one of the walls, he noticed it sounded hollow. Believing he might find another room to sub-let (and due to his heightened intoxication) he returned to the wall and took a sledge hammer to it. What he found was the vaults as they were, untouched for a couple of hundred years, still with the belongings of some of its previous inhabitants.
Thanks for that detailed description Adam. Anyway, that brings us back to our tour walking through the wall into these under streets. The smell of stale damp dirt filled our nostrils. And over the next 45 minutes our guide led us through a variety of vaults and streets, and filled our imaginations with visions of death, and the supernatural. It seems silly to be scared of all of the stories he told now, as we are sitting her on the train in broad day light, but down there, in the dark, your imagination goes into overdrive. I WAS TERRIFIED!!!!! I actually thought I was going to pass out, I was that scared. I don’ t think the pint of Bulmers I had earlier helped either. After we were sufficiently scared, the guide led us back to the main office, where we were all given a shot of whisky and some short bread. Ofcourse!
It was now getting late in the afternoon, so Adam and I decided it was time for our last stop for the day. Edinburgh Castle. We walked to the end of the Royal Mile and through the outer walls of the castle. I must say the view of Edinburgh from the castle is breathtaking. The castle sit on top of a hill in the middle of the city. We were shown the Royal living quarters, old military base, and the Honours of Scotland, amongst other things.
It was starting to get dark so we began our walk home to the Hotel, where we prepared our luggage for our train ride up to Inverness the next day.
Friday morning saw us walking to the Hay Market Train station with EVERTHING at 7:30 in the morning. We weren’t sure if we were going to the right station, so we had left early just in case we needed to catch a taxi elsewhere. As it turned out, we were at the right place and had to wait an hour for our train to Inverness. We reached Inverness and promptly hoped onto a base to take us to our final destination Fort Augustus (a town on Loch Ness.) The bus we were on didn’t quite make it to Fort Augustus, it broke down just 6 miles out, so we had to then wait for another bus to come and pick us up and take us the rest of the way. We finally made it to Morag’s Lodge in Fort Augustus, where we settled in the then went for a walk through the town.
I shall take it from here Hol...
The next day, we set out on a walking adventure. We packed lunch and snacks, found a map of walking trails in the area, and set off. To be honest, when we turned down off the road and into the forest, I wasn’t exactly sure we were on a walking trail at all. There weren’t many signs, and the walking map appeared more than useless. After following a road for a short while we noticed a green post on the side of the road with an off beaten track. We agreed this must be one of these walking tracks and pressed on.
During the walk we eventually came to a fork and a car park. Due to the early morning cold (well, due to the cold in general) a large puddle had frozen over. Due to the fact that that we don’t see much ice (not in a freezer), and due to the fact that the initial thought seemed like a great idea (hey, the closest thing we have at home is polished floor boards and socks) I decided it would be a completely lost opportunity if I did not try and skate on it. Of course when I started, Holly began filming it, and needless to say it didn’t end fantastically. Luckily I didn’t break my wrist when I landed on it, but soon after I fell on my arse, it was decided it might be a good idea if we continued on our walk.
After a bit of a stroll, and morning tea on a bridge overlooking a stream, we found ourselves back at the lodge. We got bac earlier than expected so we took another stroll down to the Loch. We had lunch at a quaint little boat-shed turned restaurant, which was in a perfect place for a little Nessie spotting... but the monster never showed.
By the time we made it back to the lodge, it was already late in the afternoon so we had a bit of a rest before having dinner and sleep before the next days early start.
Now, the next morning we had another one of our ‘taxi’ experiences.
Firstly, the ‘taxi’ from the lodge was by an elderly looking gentleman who’s car (once again) did not resemble a taxi. By that I mean it had no official ‘taxi’ markings (so once again, it could have been anyone’s car). Now, that morning was to go from Fort Augustus by taxi which was to take us to Invermoriston. From Invermoriston we were to be collected by a bus which would take us to Inverness, and then from train, back to Edinburgh.
Well that’s not what had happened. When the taxi stopped at Invermoriston, another three cars pulled up to where we were. All three occupants got out of their vehicles (including our taxi driver) and began having a local town gathering. Our driver had obviously told one of the other drivers where we were going, because not long after their conversation he looked up at us and said, “You’re going to Inverness? Come with us. We’re going that way and the bus is never on time.”
Holly and I both then looked at each other. Sent a ‘telepathic’ maybe this probably won’t be a good idea, and as we looked over, the man had already began taking things of his back seat to make room for us. We once again decided to take our chances (I mean we have been pretty lucky so far) and took the ride, and I am glad we did. The driver introduced himself as Adam, who was with his partner Barbara. The other occupant of the car was Fergus, a very well behaved Scottish terrier.
The car ride to Inverness was full of conversation with Adam and Barbara sharing with us some of the history of Loch Ness and its surroundings, as well as the history of the annual ‘Haggis Stalking’. In this context, a Haggis is a mythical creature that lives on these particular ‘spiral’ hills. With two of its four legs being shorter than the other it causes these spiral tracks down these mounds. Adam and Barbara told us of a radio competition (obviously a prank) to see if they could get people to participate in the annual ‘Haggis Stalk.’ From what I understand, a lot of people put themselves forward to search for these slanted critters.
We eventually arrived in Inverness safely but our wonderful conveyors refused to take any payment. We instead exchanged emails and bid each other farewell. To tell you the truth, I have yet to meet an impolite Scottish person on the trip. Not saying they aren’t usually, but it is always nice to have someone lend a hand especially in the small communities). We would just like to say thank to Barbara and Adam for your lovely act of generosity, we won’t ever forget it! If you are ever in Australia to visit your relatives, feel free to pop over to Perth for a while and we can do the same for you. XO
From Inverness it was an uneventful train ride back to Edinburgh (although Holly did win ‘Pass the Pigs’ twice which has resulted in being one of her favourite games). Note to Adam: Holly has yet to LOSE a game of Pass The Pigs!
From Edinburgh it was another taxi ride (which was marked this time) to the hostel to get ready for our Haggis tour (which Holly absolutely raves about so I think I will let her do that entry).
Cheerio